Metals - Basic Info:

* While my work is mostly lead/nickel free, there are some gunmetal plating on some older die stamping stock, that may be questionable. I use those findings sparingly and will state "Old Gunmetal Stock" on any listings. I do my best to describe materials in each piece. If you have allergies toward a certain metal, please feel free to contact me, in some cases, ear wires, findings, and or chains might be able to be swapped out. ***I now use Stainless Steel or St.S chain/findings predominantly, and the new gunmetal chains I use (sparingly because plating wears off and shows copper beneath if worn daily and dependent on your own body oils and chemical make-up) are Lead/nickel free. Items created with St.S/Stainless Steel chain/findings, will not tarnish/rust & will retain it's darker bright silver look and is not plated, so metal will not wear off to reveal other colors. (*Please note swapping out base metal options for Sterling Silver ones, may incur a fee be added on to your order).

*** If ever a question of metals, materials, allergies etc, please contact me prior to purchase, I will try to answer all questions regarding metal content in a particular line or creation, the best that I can. Thank You.

Metals - Plating Info:

* Plated Chains & Findings: Gunmetal, Black Matte, Silver Plate, Antiqued Silver, Antiqued Brass, Antiqued Bronze, Bronze, Antiqued Copper plate, Gold plate etc, are a base of either Copper or Brass under the plating. Silver Plate, Antiqued Silver, Sterling Plate, Gold Plate: May have a thin layer of Gold, or Sterling or Fine Silver plate over base metal Brass/Copper.

* NOT PLATED: Pure Sterling Silver (SS,.925%), Fine Silver (FS, .999%), Raw Brass, Raw Copper and Stainless Steel (StS)

* Further Explanation of plated items: the plating layer is thin, and most plated items will wear down fairly fast dependent on moisture, wear and body oils, exposing the base metal beneath. On design stamps, this might mean that base metal exposure beneath, occurs mostly on the areas it is exposed to on your body (example, back of piece, edges of piece, raised surfaces etc).

* Metals not plated: Stainless Steel Chains & Stainless steel findings, Sterling Silver & Fine Silver, Raw Brass, Raw Copper (or those same raw metals given a patina chemical solution bath but not plated with another type of metal), and while the Sorcery Collection may not be "Plated" in the formal sense, it is still a base metal sculpted over another base metal, so while it does not go through the standard electro-plating process, I would still consider it a plated metal. Although if the sculpted Sorcery Collection piece is a bit thicker sculpted on the surface, it may not wear down to show the base metal beneath.

*** The Lifespan of Plated Metals:* Pieces with Art Nouveau, Deco, or other lavish stamped Gothic Victorian designs, may be plated with Silver, antiqued brass, antiqued bronze, antiqued copper, gunmetal, black matte finish etc, may shift colors the more worn. Plating is not permanent on any plated chains, plated findings or design die stamps, and will wear off over time (*dependent on each person's chemical makeup / body oils, wear etc.) Once plating begins to wear off, the base metal beneath will be exposed. It does not lessen the overall design stability of a piece, but will create a new affect / look to a piece.

* Please note I do not have the facilities to re-plate metals. Most people tend to be fine with plated stamped creations and chains shifting over time (as they are used to the process with other pieces purchased elsewhere), since most designs may have been with them for a long time and they feel connected to pieces and have grown accustomed to the pieces taking on a new life slowly over time, making them look weathered & more like vintage creations.

Metals - Earring Hooks Info:

* Earring Hooks: Most of the earrings hooks that I currently use are Stainless Steel french hooks. Some have ball/spring designs, and some do not. St.S is not plated, will not shift colors and is a good alternative for people with allergies to other metals. I also have Black Gunmetal plate and other plated ear hooks that I use on occasion to match certain metals (these plated ear hooks are lead and nickel free but some may be a base metal beneath the plating). I also hand make my own (ball/spring-less) french hooks in Silver Fill (my preferred metal for ear hooks), although I may only use these handmade hooks on original Eyescream creations that might have a matching color metal style. Sterling Silver ear hooks are by request and may cost a little more to swap out.

Metals - Silver Fill & Gold Fill:

* Silver Fill or Gold Fill: Precious metal bonded to a base metal (usually brass, but in the early days it was mainly copper). Silver or Gold Fill, Has a thicker layer of sterling silver or gold vs plated metals, (which has a minuscule amount of sterling silver or 12kt/14kt gold plated onto the surface of a base metal). In the case of SF or GF, Silver or Gold is mechanically bonded to the surface of a base metal. It lasts much longer than "plated" metals, in fact I have worn many creations in Silver Fill and the Sterling has yet to "Wear Down". So far, the only time I have seen a change in the metal, is if some other metal instrument causes a deep gash in the Silver fill outer layer, enough to potentially expose the brass base core beneath. This effect can be a good one if you are designing a piece with the idea of having two tones of metal showing to enhance the design in some way and it was a desired effect.

* Silver Fill will behave much like Sterling Silver does, it will tarnish / Oxidize in the air, over time, dependent on humidity levels, and if you store your piece protected within a box, pouch, ziplock baggie, away from the air or not. It will also oxidize in the cracks and folds and your body oils will keep the surface of your piece naturally shiny from your own body oils rubbing on exposed areas. Silver or Gold Fill is a good substitution for pure Silver or Gold and at a fraction of the cost (in some cases). Silver fill can also be antiqued & given a patina as well, much like Sterling Silver.

* I may refer to Silver Fill as S.F. and Gold Fill as G.F. in descriptions FYI.

Metals - Sorcery Collection:

* Sorcery Collection are mostly Copper or Brass based, and could have some sterling wire or other silver elements in the design (dependent per piece as I create them), that then has a layer of lead free silver alloy tin sculpted on top. (* Silver Alloy may contain a small amount of silver mixed in to the tin as well).

Metals - Copper Alchemy Collection & Brass Stamped Line:

* Copper Alchemy: The Copper Alchemy pieces are copper electroformed over potentially organic materials, metal, clay, resin, stones etc. Electroforming is the process of depositing layers of metal particles onto an organic item (in most cases) and or other metal. Electroplating, is the process of plating a thin layer of metal onto another metal. Electroformed creations can have a thin layer of metal or a thick layer of metal deposited onto an item, all dependent on the creator & the length of time of the process involved to create the electroformed item.

* Raw Copper & Brass: Most Copper & Brass pieces I am doing lately in the Hand Stamped series, may not be sealed with a lacquer. Raw Brass or Raw Copper stamped pieces may only have a light wax seal buffed in, but no other sealant, and a light wax seal will dissipate over time and with wear. Raw Base metal creations may be prone to color shifts due to improper storage, moisture, or time, and may cause a little skin discoloration on areas most exposed directly to metal (and sweat). Again, any discoloration that base metals may cause on skin is nothing to worry about and will wash away easily.

Metals - Artistic Wire:

* Artistic Wire: Enamel coated copper base wire. Special care and nylon tools are used when creating pieces in colored Artistic Wire. Proper care must be taken when storing creations with Artistic Wire, so as not to scrape on the colored wire. Scraping colored Artistic Wire with metal tools, or hard objects, could expose the copper beneath the coating. While I may not be crafting many designs in this type of colored wire, there may be an object or two, so I felt the need to include the infos here.

Metals - Antiquing, Patina & Blemishes:

* Some metal pieces are finished in either a dark gray / gunmetal patina (which I may call antiqued) or left in a shiny bright finish that is then sealed with a microcrystalline wax.

* Please note antiquing is not meant to last forever Items with a patina (at current) are lightly waxed, and wax can dissipate over time leaving metal open to shift colors. Metal may shift colors the more you wear it (from oils & moisture). With all of these aspects at work, it may also enhance the concept of an aged artifact recently unearthed once the color shifts begin.

Different Patinas create different color effects and each type of metal has a different chemical that is used. No one chemical patina will last forever (ie: antiqued electro-plating will eventually wear off, usually on the places it touches your skin and dependent on how often you wear that piece, Chemically antiqued Sorcery Collection, or Silver Alchemy pieces the antiquing should last a good while if there are cracks and folds for the patina to go into on a design. Any portions of smooth metal that has been chemically antiqued, will wear off dependent again on how often you wear it and the oils in your body naturally cleaning the areas of metal that most touch it. Copper Alchemy line is chemically antiqued and the patina will wear off on the areas that touch your skin the most, which will reveal a brighter copper color and shine.

* Patina & Antiquing Silver Alchemy Work: My Sterling silver and Silver Fill designs as well as some Copper Alchemy pieces, may have been antiqued (given a patina) by giving the metal a bath in a liver of sulfur solution.

* Patina & Antiquing Sorcery Collection & Brass Stamped creations: These pieces may have been given a patina with chemicals strictly created for base metals. Some create a gray or darkened gunmetal effect, and some a warm dark brown effect.

* You can clean the metal as best as you can, a Polishing cloth (impregnated with polishing compounds & specifically designed to polish metal jewelry) could be used.

*A NOTE ON CLEANING PIECES: If polishing metal that has been antiqued, you may loose some or all of the antiquing / patina from your piece, especially the parts of the metal that are being rubbed /buffed with the cloth. AVOID dipping any of my art jewelry into a jewelry cleaning chemical bath, as most pieces may have stones, enamel work or other concept that would not fair well within such chemicals.

* Metal Blemishes: Some creations may have a blemish on the metal, so metal styles, sculpted metal designs, stamped metal and or plating may not always be perfect.

Stone Info:

Opal Info and Soft Stone Care:

* Most of the rough opals I use have not been stabilized (stabilization in the simplest terms, is when a resin or epoxy is added to the soft stone surface, to fill in any fractures and to seal it for stability, and most may get a backing added for support or to enhance color play). My recent opals, may still be in an organic form, that I cleaned and gently formed straight from rough. I tend to do this to try to keep the natural shape of the opal (in most cases). A lot of opals, (when Not stabilized), may be prone to cracking or crazing (when little cracks or fissures are in the stone, some can be seen and others may not). Stabilization fills in those fissures, and at current, I choose to work with organic rough and do not seal the stones (although I do have some cabochons that may have been stabilized) so most of the rough I use may already have inherent crazing happening as soon as the pieces were dug up. Some opals might crack from extreme drastic shifts in temperature, & opals may shift colors or fade in certain temperatures and water. Most opal colors will bounce back once the stone has dried out most of the water content from washing your hands (as an example). To be safe, you should still avoid submerging opals for extended periods, so best to avoid showering or washing dishes in your opals. Even though opals are comprised of a small percentage of water (which differs per type of opal and location of opal).

* Current Opals on stock: Ethiopian Welo Opal, I also have some boulder opal, opal doublets or triplets (doublets/triplets are stabilized), and some vintage Coober Pedy Opal from Australia, Mexican Fire Opal, as well as some lower grade opals without color flash (ie: yellow, pink, dendretic opal). I will try to list what type of opal is used in most creations, if I can recall. At best, wear your opal often, take notice not to wear during certain harsh activities, store opals separate from other jewelry to protect from scratching, do not rub with a harsh cloth (might scratch), avoid extreme heat (further cracking).

* To clean rough opals: Use gentle strokes and wash gently with a little soap (mild detergent)/water (*gentle and mild are the key words here), shake, or pat dry, make sure all metal is dry, and leave to fully dry in the air, and avoid water cleaning with Doublet or triplet opals (since the stabilization is done with materials that can break down in water). If you have a lot of gunk build up, you could use a Very VERY soft old toothbrush with the mild soap and light water (*old is key on a soft bristle toothbrush*) which is also good for cleaning hard to reach places around the house (*always use a separate toothbrush for jewelry cleaning vs housework). If no gunk build up on stone but more on the metal surrounding the stone, attempt to avoid brushing stone and opt to focus on the metal instead. While opals may get scratched, this is natural given how soft some are, if you take a bit of care as outlined above, it may help prolong their surface look.

To Recap: Take care and be mindful of Eyescream creations that utilize soft stones (ie: opals, pearls, turquoise, amber etc). Protect all your soft stones by keeping them away from extreme heat, chemicals, and extended periods in water. Gentle care should also be taken so as not to scratch or damage your soft stone creations. Please avoid harsh scrubbing or harsh rubbing while light cleaning occurs. Store all soft stone creations separate from other jewelry pieces (to further protect the stone) and avoid harsh environments & activities like manual labor, moving heavy duty items etc.

Stone Info:

I have been collecting stones for well over 30yrs and collecting found objects, parts and supplies for longer. I cannot always remember where my stones originated from as I didn't always keep track for most of it, and because my collections are big, documenting every single stones location would just be a bit too much work for me. Although chances are greater, that I can tell you what was going on in my life, or what I may have been into at the time of collecting certain stones, as I associate visuals, experiences and feelings with my stones more than where stones may have first started from. Some stones I have cut, cleaned, polished myself (I am still putting together my lapidary setup so it is not the focus at the moment, although I would love to do it more often as I Love stones). A lot of the stones I have sources from All over the place and each piece I have hand selected for one reason or another for their interest or beauty or style. I have a vast collection and fairly vast knowledge of stones by look/color and type, but as a true rockhound, I continue to learn and explore.

* Some stones may have imperfections like chips, scratches, inclusions and or color variations. Stones used are a mix of smooth/polished, faceted, or raw/rough. I work with a lot of raw/rough stones and minerals in general, as I find beauty in pieces that may not be as desired to most because of their inherent surface imperfections. To me it gives the creations more of their own unique character and charm. While I may have some perfect to near perfect stone offerings, most of my stones are offered as is, rough and from the earth in most cases, cut, faceted or polished rough, or smooth high polish.

* Some metal components & surfaces may also have blemishes or imperfections.

Stone Meanings:

I am sure many of you already know the "meanings" to most stones. While I thoroughly believe in stone energy, I do not always buy into the "meaning" of a stones energy based on what is written out in a book. So, if you were looking for a full list of the meanings of stones, you won't find that here, only my personal views on "Crystal Energy". Most words/feelings associated with most stones, had to have come from somewhere, but Where? Most sellers on Marketplace platforms, will flower up their listings with little passages of the "meaning" of stones, and most will 'copy/paste' those passages & paraphrase from other writers, other website, books etc without giving any credit. Even other sites will do the same to each other. If you want to test out this theory, just copy and paste some flowery details about the meaning of the stones in their listing, from some random seller, and paste it into google and you might find that a near word by word description lies elsewhere as well.

I believe that stones have energy, but I also believe that you may not always find the meaning of the stone in a book, online, or told to you by someone trying to sell you on those same words/feelings they are saying are associated with it. On the flip side, if the one attempting to sell you certain words/feelings, has had a lengthy experience with those stones in particular, than they may know that those words/feelings have come from a certain stone before. If you Listen to what that person is saying, it is quite likely that you will attribute those specific words/feelings to a particular stone too, the same thing could occur if you read about it somewhere. Once you get those words/feelings into your head, you are basically Projecting that you want to Feel those words/feels that you are now associating with a particular stone. Not quite magic, but projecting an energy onto something, might allow you to feel that that is the energy you are perceiving or receiving back.

I can only go by what I personally know, or feel something to be (just as you should as well). Different stones give me different feels all on their own, they always have. I tend to think that each person can connect with the stone they need at the time that they truly need it. But, also keep this in mind,.... Each stone is unique, each comes from a different location in the world, each location is surrounded by other elements & minerals. Say you have the same type of stone coming from two different locations in the world, each location may have other minerals and elements of the earth surrounding it that would/could drastically change the energy that that stone might give off (which also happens when a stone from the same family has a different set of inclusions within it, but it doesn't always have to have inclusions of other stones to possibly have had a different energy and different elements surrounding it as it formed).

Each person is unique as well, we will each connect with stones differently than one another. Certain stones may work for one, but not for another. Certain stones you may be drawn to at different points of your life, that may not have called to you before or may not have been offered to you at the right time in your life. Sometimes you might look into the written "meaning" of that stone and find out Exactly what you thought it was about anyway, especially since "meanings" can differ per stone and per different resource listing those "meanings", a stone can have multiple "meanings" from different sources, and some may have so many different words/feelings written about them, that they can even conflict in "meanings". A person that writes a book about Stone "Meanings", may either be telling you of their personal connections/experiences with those stones (remember not all one size fits all), and what their own words/feels are, or they may be combining words/feels from other sources as well (as in taking words/feels from other people that have written those same words/feels and possibly those words/feels had some history centuries back). People may also just be updating those same words/feels from centuries ago, to make them more modern now, as is the case of some people even going so far as to re-name stones and crystals to suit their own desires, and therefore others may even be swayed to think this "New" crystal (insert new name for an old stone) is filled with all sorts of New Words/Feels, or maybe a new process to treat and enhance the crystal / stone, makes one think they are getting a "NEW" and improved "Never before discovered" words/feels slapped on with a pretty new label. Some words/feels for stones are also based around color that correlates with the energy that one wants to manifest.

There are truly so many concepts behind crystal energy, and so many people that are possibly stuck on a particular stone giving off the same words/feels that other people says that it does (most of the time, based off of knowledge given or concepts taken by others). While it is ok to take in the "Meanings of Stones" based on the words/feels of the masses, because the seller is attempting to give you exactly what you desire in the first place, all ready and waiting and served on a platter within flowery verbiage. Hopefully at some point along your path, you might find it best to realize that it is all about what you personally feel from each particular stone, what you manifest it to be and the work you put into it yourself.

"Meanings" of stones are much like the Meaning and philosophy behind 'Tarot', or 'I-Ching', you can allocate the concept or philosophy behind a given card you draw or toss you make with the coins to any given point you are at in your life. Much of the meaning in a "reading" or "toss" or "reading tea leaves" (or whatever medium you choose), is first given to you by the skill of the one doing the reading for you, and the skill of the one receiving the information to put it into the proper context. Which means that anything is possible, by studying & projecting your will and intent into something, via repetitive energy concepts.

*Special Side Note: Although some stones may be downright Exactly as they have always been for centuries, and most know that Crystals (*Quartz) in general, are used to promote and amplify energy, because quartz can vibrate at a stable frequency, it can be used as a conduit for energy to flow through as a result of that frequency and can keep items like clocks, watches etc, accurate. Basically, quartz is scientifically proven to amplify the energy it is given.

So if I ever state the "Meaning" of a particular stone in one of my listings (or even allude to a meaning via a title or concept), it may be a direct result of my own personal experiences, but as I have spewed out above, you may or may not have the same experience with that particular stone. So, while Labradorite may be among my favorite stones, and while I may do a lot of Lucid dream work, and I may manifest my dream work and energy of dreams into my stones and they too manifest it back to me, any stone "meanings" here, are purely based on the words/feels of this particular artists experience and past. You could choose to manifest and therefore receive the same energy based on my experience if you so desire.... but....

I would highly suggest working with a particular stone, and seeing what may manifest from being with it or near it, before reading about what the stone "could" be good for, as you may find you have your very own words/feels regarding a particular stone, and only You, may feel that way about it.  My point is, Listen to the energy you might already be receiving from said stone (outside of reading about it), Cleanse and charge your stones. Charge your stone with the will and intent of the energy you wish to give it and the energy you wish to receive back. Manifest your own words/feels... It couldn't hurt.

*Disclaimer* I am not saying crystals will cure you, or that they are "Magic",... I Am saying they are Magical, and you hold the power to manifest your own energies with (or without) the aid of a stone.

Care - Collection Specific:

About Rings & Skin Discoloration:

* Base Metal Rings in general: May turn your finger colors and or plating on base metal rings may wear off over time. This is natural and totally dependent on how often the ring is worn, oils/moisture on skin, and how hard you are on your rings (ie: lots of physical activities that might cause rings to get banged up or constantly scratched up).

* Sorcery Collection, Copper Alchemy & Brass Stamped Rings: It is best to not submerge Sorcery Collection or Copper Alchemy Collection, Brass stamped rings in water for extended periods when washing hands. If your finger shifts color under a Sorcery ring band (might turn a gray tone just under the band), or Copper Alchemy ring band (might turn finger green under band), Brass rings might be a warm mix of color between the two, do not fret, it washes right off your finger and is generally caused by body oils and moisture being trapped between band/metal and skin. This type of skin discoloration should not cause you any bodily harm in general, *Except* for those with skin/metal allergies.

* Rings that are created in Silver fill or Sterling Silver, while they may not turn your finger colors per se, if the ring is oxidizing from being left out in the open air (vs stored away in a jewelry box), the metal will shift from a light yellowing oxidizing phase, to a black oxidizing phase (the latter phase can take a very long time to occur dependent on how long the piece is left in the open air). Silver rings that have tarnish / oxidation on the surface, the natural oils in your body can clean the surface of the lightly yellow phase so a little gray may appear on the finger and can be easily cleaned with soap and water. The Oxidation will not be cleaned from skin oils within the cracks and folds of a detailed or etched ring design (depends on the depth of the design or etch), and may just add to the character of the ring adding depth from the shift of shiny silver to darkened silver (a natural Antiquing if you will).

* If your Silver Fill or Sterling Silver ring has been antiqued / given a patina by me, then yes, a light gray may rub off on the finger from the antiquing and can be easily washed away.

* Fine Silver rings should not turn your finger colors, Unless your piece has been antiqued with a chemical, then the discoloration will purely be from the antiquing patina wearing off. Easy to wash off the finger, so no worries. Fine Silver was not meant to be antiqued so it may not hold a patina well, although that still doesn't stop me from doing it.

Care of Shrink Art, Resin, Clay, Enamel, painted objects:

* Pieces made of Resin, Shrink Art, enamel, painted objects: While these creations may be water resistant, they are not waterproof so Please avoid submerging in water & you should keep pieces away from long extended periods in direct sunlight (ie: not hung in sunny window), extreme heat (heater, blow dryer, oven) as well as harsh chemicals (rubbing alcohol, hair spray, nail polish remover, aerosols etc), as those will react and or cling to the surface of that material creating a frosted or cloudy affect or removing certain enamels & or paint from objects or other imagery. To clean Resin, Shrink Art, Clay, Enamel & painted art objects, Only use a soft dry cloth like a microfiber fabric, and only with gentle strokes, please avoid wiping too hard over Shrink/Resin work as it may cause scratches (in fact I would avoid wiping on the surface of Any Resin or domed sealant, shrink art pieces to avoid scratches on the surface of the material), wiping down chain with the soft dry cloth is fine and wiping off the back of metal plate cameo type settings that don't show the resin side are fine as well.

* Please use common sense on materials and around all harsh chemicals & Always place Resin, Shrink Art, Clay, enameled or painted art pieces on your body AFTER applying or using hair sprays, perfumes or other chemicals.

* Some Clay work may be ok in water or cleaning with water as long as it doesn't have any enamel or color work on it. If you do not know if your piece might be safe to be cleaned with water etc, you can always contact me direct, I may ask for a photo of your particular Eyescream creation for reference, and then I can better answer questions about cleaning said piece. As always, you can also contact me prior to purchase, regarding the proper care of a particular product if you do not find your answers here. Thanks

Bone Care:

* Bones are very Very hard to clean so it best to not get makeup, paint or other marks on bone as you may not be able to clean the bone after. Bone creations should be the last thing you put on (after hair spray, makeup or perfume). Please take care with bone objects as the smaller the bone piece, the easier it could get damaged if rough on piece. Store with care, keep stored separately & away from other jewelry or heavy metal objects. Store bones in their own box *preferred* and do not stack ANY items on top of your bone creations. *** Bone specimens are ethically & legally obtained. Bones and or parts are either found, collected, road kill and or recycled.



Varied Styles are open to interpretation and constantly shifting: Ritual Witchy Jewelry, Gothic Couture, Neo-Victorian, Industrial, Tribal Nouveau, Steampunk, Bohemian, Totemic, Eye Talisman, Sorcery Collection, Artifacts Macabre, Silver & Copper Alchemy & stamped brass designs, Altered Art, Bridal Headpieces, Gothic Bat Jewelry, chunky stone rings, crystals, quartz pendants, moon necklaces, skull rings, art prints, miniature sculptures, paintings, custom order one of a kind & esoteric dark art.


I strive to create pieces in many art forms and I constantly push myself to try new techniques, so far that include: Torched (both hard and soft soldered), bezel set, wire wrapped, copper electroformed, carved, molded, hand sculpted in clay or layered molten metals, antiqued / dark patinas, sanded, polished / buffed, hand cut & polished stones (more as I perfect the technique), hand painted, resin work, shrink art, scrimshaw etching on bone, beaded, pierced, hammered, hand stamped, and formed with love. Most recently, I have begun cutting, shaping and polishing stones (more as I get better equipped and skilled at Lapidary work).


Materials can include: Semi precious stones, natural / rough minerals, stone clusters, rough chunks, raw points, polished / tumbled stones, quartz / agate / jasper (& all stones in-between), unique cut stones, fossils, copper / brass / sterling silver / fine silver / silver fill / gold fill / artistic wire, pearls / glass / crystal / beads, bone, rhinestones, lace, embroidery, fabric, metal plated die stamps, nickel & lead free plated and raw metals / chains / components, lead free tin, stainless steel chain / findings, acrylic paint / enamel / baked on enamel, paper, canvas, wood, vintage ephemera, found objects. Pretty much anything I can get my hands on and feel confident about using it to craft Eyescream creations.

Abbreviations for Metal/Stones:

Metal type / Collection type:

* Ant = Antiqued, gun = Gunmetal, MT Blk = Matte Black, SS = Sterling, ST or StS = Stainless Steel (this abb. can seem like it could be Sterling but I use SS strictly for solid Sterling Silver), SF = Silver Fill, GF = Gold Fill, BRS = Brass, Cop = Copper, SP = Silver Plate, AntS = Antiqued Silver Plate, AntC = Antiqued Copper Plate, AntB = Antiqued Brass plate, Brnz = Bronze plate, AW = Artistic Wire, T = Tin, SorC = Sorcery, SH = Shrink Art, AAC = Altered Art Creation, ArtM = Artifacts Macabre.

Stones/Glass etc:

* GLS = Glass, Stn = Stone, Qtz = Quartz, AG = Agate, DZ = Drusy/Druzy, Clus Cluster, Amy = Amethyst, BO = Black Onyx, Gar = Garnet, Hem = Hematite, Lab = Labradorite, Cit Citrine, AQ or AqM = Aqua Marine, Carn = Carnelian, Prl or FWP = Pearl/Fresh Water Pearl, MOP = Mother of Pearl, AB = Abalone, AB = Aurora Borealis affect if Glass or crystal is also mentioned, BN = Bone, Cry = Crystal, Vint = Vintage, SmQ = Smokey Quartz, Mn = Moonstone, RM = Rainbow Moonstone, TE = Tigers Eye, Blk = Black.

There are more abbreviations I might use on the site to describe materials used, but these are some main ones. I am placing this on the site, in case I forget to list full words in descriptions... (Just in case haha).


For info on Proper Care, Storing, Cleaning your Eyescream Creations, please Go Back to: FAQ pg


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